The Journal · Entry II
Concentration, Honestly
What Eau de Parfum actually describes, what approximately 30% oil means in Noir Immortal, and why a percentage is not a measure of quality.
Published 8 September 2026
What concentration describes.
Concentration is the proportion of perfume oil held in the alcohol base of a fragrance. It is a measure of density, not of merit. A composition with more oil carries more material into the same space; whether that space becomes richer or merely heavier depends entirely on what has been put into it.
What Eau de Parfum means.
Eau de Parfum describes a fragrance whose oil concentration sits above that of an Eau de Toilette. In practice an Eau de Toilette is lighter and more immediately airy; an Eau de Parfum reads denser, closer to the skin and slower to resolve. The terms are conventions of the trade rather than fixed legal thresholds, so the same label can cover a range of densities from one House to another.
That is the honest version. It is also why the term alone tells a wearer less than it appears to.
What approximately 30% oil means in Noir Immortal.
Noir Immortal is an Eau de Parfum, presented in a 60 ml House flacon and composed at approximately 30% oil concentration. The figure is stated because it is true of the working composition, not because it is a claim. It is not an Extrait de Parfum and is not described as one.
The density was chosen for a particular behaviour: depth and steadiness rather than volume. It says what proportion of the bottle is composition. It does not say how long the fragrance lasts, how far it travels, or how it will be received — none of which the House will publish while the composition is still being refined.
A percentage tells you how much there is. It cannot tell you whether it was worth putting there.
Why more oil is not automatically better.
Concentration is one part of a fragrance's architecture. The quality of the raw materials, the balance between them, the way the structure diffuses, and how the whole behaves in air and on individual skin all matter at least as much. A high oil load built on ordinary materials produces a great deal of ordinary. A restrained structure built on good ones can hold attention for years.
How the House selects those materials is set out under ingredients.
Sensory quality governs the final decision.
The House works to a simple principle during refinement: the composition is judged by how it behaves, not by the number attached to it. If a slightly different but technically appropriate concentration produces a better result, the better result wins. Approximately 30% describes the composition as it currently stands, and the stated figure will match the finished work when the formula is locked.
Entry II of The ZAYA+® Journal. Further entries are being written and will appear here when they are finished.
The Journal
Continue reading the House.
Entries appear when they are finished, not on a schedule.